The delegation drove 2.5 hours through dozens of villages in the countryside along the Cassandra, Sifna and Athos peninsulas to get to the cruise that would show us ten of the twenty monasteries of Mount Athos. Pagans occupied the land and shaped the history of this area long before the center of worldwide Christian monasticism took its place possibly as early as the third century.

Some of the monasteries can be accessed (difficultly) by walking between them, but others require boats, and they nearly all require hiking to reach. As many as 2300 monks live on the "Holy Mountain" giving hospitality and spiritual counsel to thousands of visitors each year who wish to give up the world, if only for a short time. "Hesychasm" thrives here: a solitary, deeply-meditative prayer (usually the "Jesus Prayer"--"Lord Jesus Christ, Son of God, have mercy on me, a sinner") that concentrates on "stillness" and voluntary deprivation from the world. It has been traced to the words of our Savior Himself: "Go into your closet, and when you shut your door, pray" (Matt. 6:6).

The group sailed along the western shore of the Athos Peninsula because the eastern waters are too rough. Even famous generals and admirals throughout the ages have refused to attack from the east for fear of almost certain death. The monasteries' locations high above the waters have kept the monks mostly free of harm throughout the ages.

None of the pilgrims could visit any of these historic, holy monasteries: they prohibit women and, even if the men secured a visa to enter, they would not have any quality time to spend there because the pilgrimage is packed with visits each day. So, even though the pilgrims could not go to Athos, Athos came to them. The Priest-monk Daniel from Xenophon Monastery (founded in 998 A.D.) came with his crew on a speedboat and met the bigger boat. When he boarded, he unveiled the following relics:

--St. Marina the Great-Martyr (her forearm)
--St. Stephen the First-Martyr (his skull)
--St. George the Great-Martyr (pieces of his right forearm and middle finger)
--St. John the Baptist (drops of his blood that fell into the earth)
--A piece of the true Cross of Christ
--Tiny relics of the Apostles Philip, Barnabas and Andrew the First-Called, as well as St. Basil the Great and St. Anna the Mother of the Virgin Mary

The pilgrims were overjoyed with this surprise of the assembly of legendary saints. Everyone on the boat rushed and crushed to venerate them and have icons, crosses and prayer ropes blessed upon them. They later learned that a monk comes from Xenophon once a day when the monastery learns that pilgrims will be on the cruise. No one will soon forget the excitement of that hour.

The delegation made two stops on the way back into Thessaloniki. The first was not on the schedule, but certainly worth the visit: St. Stephen the First-Martyr Cathedral in Arnaia near Chalkidiki. Sayidna JOSEPH remarked at the simple piety and hospitality of the clergy who greeted us, and fondly recalled their teacher: the late Metropolitan NIKODEMOS of thrice-blessed memory of the Metropolis of Ierissos, Agion Oron and Ardamerion.

In 2005, a devastating fire destroyed practically the entire old church building. The exact cause is unknown, but the clergy suspect an electrical short. However, other churches and monasteries in nearby areas came to the aid of St. Stephen Cathedral and raised all of the necessary money to rebuild within one year. Brand new icons, woodwork and flooring adorn the new building, but standing at the entrance is an old icon written in honor of the "Theotokos of the Myrtle Tree." For more information, click here: http://oca.org/saints/lives/2013/09/24/102724-icon-of-the-mother-of-god-of-ldquothe-myrtle-treerdquo.

The fire gave the parish the chance to excavate underneath the old church. Archaeologists found the remains of a fifth century basilica, giving proof that an Orthodox Christian community has existed on this very spot for nearly 16 centuries. They unearthed frescoes, icons and even coins from that time. The new church has a glass-bottom floor so that everyone can see the old basilica underneath.

Sayidna JOSEPH led the delegation in the singing of hymns to St. Stephen, the Theotokos and St. Thekla on the eve of her feast-day. St. Thekla bears a special place in the pilgrims' hearts because, on their last trip together, they visited the ancient monastery bearing her name in Maaloula, Syria which has now been severely damaged by terrorists fighting in the civil war there. They prayed for her to intercede to save her ancient city and the nuns and orphan girls who call St. Thekla's first-century home their home.

His Eminence then took the pilgrims to the gravesite of Metropolitan NIKODEMOS right behind the cathedral. He died just over a year ago after leading his metropolis for 31 years. Sayidna led in the singing of "Memory Eternal" and read aloud the words on his tombstone: "I look for the resurrection of the dead" taken from the Creed.

The second stop on the trip back celebrated the birthday of our pilgrimage's organizer, Jasminka Gabrie. She had spotted a Greek dessert shop earlier in the day and, although the delegates wanted to treat her to pastries and gelato in honor of her special day and the countless hours she spent coordinating a memorable pilgrimage, she insisted on treating them! They were most grateful for all that she does and for her love and friendship. May God grant her many years!