The wakeup call came at 3:30 a.m. Bleary-eyed and with little sleep, His Eminence, Archbishop JOSEPH and the delegation boarded a bus, rushed to Thessaloniki's Makedonia Airport, and boarded a 6:40 a.m. flight that took them to Belgrade, Serbia. The trip lasted an hour and the pilgrims gained an hour as they switched time zones, but that did nothing for their exhaustion.

However, their sleepiness vanished upon their first stop on Saturday at 9:00 a.m. in Belgrade: a special and inspirational audience with the leader of Serbia's Orthodox Christians--His Holiness, Patriarch IRINEJ. He had just completed a visit to some of his churches in North America, and so the delegation caught up with him at the patriarchate. His Holiness, Patriarch IRINEJ told Sayidna JOSEPH and the pilgrims that he was "overjoyed" to receive them, saying, "We are brothers and sisters and, most importantly, we are one in spirit together. Please be at home in our country."

Immediately, Serbian hospitality kicked in. In the inner cabinet and official receiving room of His Holiness Patriarch IRINEJ, we were served coffee and plum brandy, beverages that the pilgrims would receive at every visit in this warm and blessed country. From the first stop, the delegation, made up of Orthodox Christians  of the Church of Antioch, learned from His Holiness Patriarch IRINEJ just how similar his church's history is to theirs.

The audience covered a wide range of subjects and His Holiness graciously answered all of the questions from the delegation. The first topic was the civil war in Syria, about which Patriarch IRINEJ addressed the group with great lament. Throughout Serbia's history, the Church has been persecuted by outsiders who wanted to kill their faith. Now, Syria is enduring such a struggle. But, as His Holiness and His Eminence agreed, Christianity was never promised that it would live in peace. After all, the Lord said: "If they have persecuted Me, they will persecute you also" (John 15:20b). The two hierarchs agreed that they will continue to pray for all of the innocents suffering in both of these countries.

Another topic addressed His Holiness' thoughts on Orthodox Christians living in the United States and about how they are building the Church there. Patriarch IRINEJ stressed that it cannot be founded on culture or patriotism alone, but rather on Jesus Christ Himself. Although the U.S. does not have a "national Orthodox Church," he said it may someday. In the meantime, His Holiness said although he feels sadness that Serbians have left Serbia, at the same time, he is joyous that they have found consolation in the Orthodox communities there.

His Holiness had recently addressed the United Nations during his time in the U.S. He felt warmly received when he discussed the building of peace around the world (http://www.spc.rs/files/u5/2013/9/eng.pdf) but he had later wished he had more time to discuss his Church's fragile situation. Patriarch IRINEJ hopes to make another official visit to the U.S. next year. Perhaps one stop will include Los Angeles, after Sayidna JOSEPH immediately extended an invitation welcoming His Holiness.

One of the delegates asked His Holiness Patriarch IRINEJ about being a witness to peace in a world that constantly rejects it. "The Gospel is the inspiration and message for all of us," His Holiness said. "The Lord told us all we need to know in the words of the Gospel which we must follow.   We understand the words of the Gospel, but often times we don't live by them." And on the subject of loving the enemies of peace: "All people are created according to the image of God, so we must embrace them even more. This way, they can begin to understand who we are and the depth of our faith.  In turn, we become the evangelists we are supposed to be."

Sayidna JOSEPH then thanked His Holiness Patriarch IRINEJ for the "premium" time he spent with the delegation which was truly a blessing. After pictures, His Holiness departed to receive other guests and left our delegation in the good care of his clergy. They led us on a tour of the important parts of the patriarchate including the inner church which sits directly across from the room where the Holy Assembly of Bishops meets every year in May.  Here, crucial decisions made by the patriarch and bishops are prayed upon and then decided on during the 15-day Holy Assembly of Bishops which meets every May and at times for an additional session in the fall.  During the entire time of the work of these assemblies, the doors of both the assembly room and of the chapel remain open and basically become one large room.

Sadly, the Serbian people are no strangers to occupation, whether by the Ottoman Turks, the Nazis or their own people under communism. One large painting hangs in the synodal chamber reminding the synod and visitors of this: "Migration of the Serbs" by Paja Yovanovich. It depicts the Turks leading the Serbs out of their country in the 19th century and includes bishops carrying sacred relics to save them from destruction. The Church kept this painting underneath the floor of the chapel during World War II because the Nazis would never think to look there. However, they converted the chapel into a mess hall and wrote the day's menu in chalk on the icons of the saints.

The delegation then reboarded the bus and drove two hours to Serbia's second city, Kragujevic. It sits in the Diocese of Sumadija, the home of our most gracious host, His Grace, Bishop JOVAN, and the pilgrims' home for the next several days. The delegation had no idea the hospitality and spiritual knowledge it would receive from him, as Vladyka JOVAN would personally escort the pilgrims throughout his diocese. He came down the stairs of his chancery and greeted Sayidna JOSEPH with a big embrace. This heartfelt reunion was the first time they had seen each other in eleven years, when Vladyka JOVAN was called to leave the Western American Diocese of the Serbian Orthodox Church in Los Angeles and take up residence in Kraguevic. These two hierarchs don't speak the same languages, but they spoke through love and prayer.

Following the Vigil Service in Dormition Cathedral, Vladkya JOVAN gathered with Sayidna JOSEPH and the pilgrims in the salon for the first interaction. Both hierarchs agreed: they were true brothers from the very first moment they met and they were the closest among bishops on the West Coast. Vladkya JOVAN expressed his great joy that Sayidna came to see his home, and Sayidna JOSEPH was so thankful to fulfill his promise to visit him in Serbia.

Both hierarchs discussed the joys and struggles of their dioceses. Even though the effects of communism are still felt in Serbia, Sumadija has consecrated 52 new churches and 11 new monasteries in 11 years. It has 208 parishes with 270 clergy and 24 monasteries with 90 monastics. People were afraid to attend church during the last century, but not anymore. Vladyka JOVAN says the younger generations are teaching their parents and grandparents how to make the sign of the Cross and how to receive Holy Communion.

Sayidna JOSEPH talked about his more than 60 parishes and 150 clergy and all of their successes, but also remarked that he personally spends much of his time in airports. "Even though the hotels are tiring, I am always rejuvenated," Saydina JOSEPH said. "Thank you, Vladyka, for having us in your home, which will hasten the healing from staying in hotels!"

Vladyka JOVAN then hosted the first of several sumptuous dinners fit for royalty. His only complaint throughout the pilgrims' stay was that they did not eat enough. After that, it was bedtime in order to prepare for the spiritual journey that lay ahead in Serbia.