Day Twelve: Visits to Nativity of the Theotokos Church, St. George Church and Karadorde ("Black George") Museum, Ss. Peter and Paul Church - 10/03/13
The delegation bid farewell to Kragujevac and began the bus ride to the Serbian capitol of Belgrade. It traveled through Topola, the famed city of Serbian hero Dorde Petrovic, known as "Karadorde" ("Black George"). The group would learn much about his legacy and dynasty as it made visits to his museum and three churches in that area.
The first stop was the small Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos. Its bell tower is the fourth oldest structure in the city. Petar Nikolajević Moler, one of Karadorde's generals, painted the icons in the church when it was built in the early 19th century. Eighteen carvers crafted the wooden iconostasis, the most famous part of the church, over three years. It features 3,000 Old Testament images and is the only work of its kind left in Serbia. Its four wooden columns spin; the center pair features scenes from the lives of St. Sava and the Nemanjic family. The iconostasis was set to go on display at the World Expo in Montreal, Quebec in 1976 but it could not leave Serbia -- no shipper would insure it.
Next door to the church is the Karadorde House and Museum which features all sorts of artifacts about the Serbian hero who lived here. He earned the nickname "Black George" because, during the First Uprising of the Serbian Revolution in 1811, his military victories against Serbia's enemies left thousands of enemy widows. Inside the museum was Karadorde's first canon that he never used. It was missing its right handle; Karadorde's grandson, King Peter I, took it and placed it in his crown in 1903. Other personal items included icons, clothing, paintings, pictures and correspondence.
Karadorde built another church nearby in honor of St. George the Great-Martyr, and only one phrase can describe it: JAW-DROPPING. From ceiling to floor, mosaic icons adorn one of the most beautiful churches in the whole world. The pilgrims took turns guessing how many tiles comprised them, but they all fell short of the correct answer: 60 million, and 15,000 colors. Members of the royal Karadordevic dynasty built this church from 1911-30 as a monument and tomb to their ancestor and his patron saint, which would also serve as their final resting places.
The pilgrims could not get over the majesty of this holy temple, which has the rare featue of two domes -- one over the nave (featuring the apostles with their scrolls), the other over the sanctuary and altar table (featuring Christ with His apostles in the Garden of Gethsemane). The chandelier is in the shape of an upside-down Serbian crown. The church's marble came from all over the world, and hand-carved portions of it make up the iconostasis. Perhaps the most prominent mosaic icon rests near the exit of the church -- it features St. George leading Karadorde by the arm to the Theotokos. Karadorde wears his kingly robe, medals and crown, and carries his palace as if to carry his kingdom to heaven.
The royal crypt lies beneath the church, and it is a church in its own rite. St. Peter Crypt holds the body of King Peter II, whose body was only recently returned to Serbia from the U.S. And yes, the crypt is equally as magnificent as the church upstairs. More mosaics adorn it depicting various Biblical scenes, including the upside-down crucifixion of St. Peter the Apostle. The low ceiling is filled with blue tiles and "stars" as if the royal family -- and those visiting it -- are already in heaven. The crypt also functions as a church, where singers and chanters can hear their voices echo for three seconds as they travel seven times around the walls.
After visiting, the 19th and 20th century churches, the pilgrims went to a 21st century church in nearby Arandjelovac. Ss. Peter and Paul Church was built between 2000-4, consecrated in 2005 by His Holiness, Patriarch PAVLE of thrice-blessed memory. Not only did the parish clergy come to greet Sayidna JOSEPH, but so did a local TV news reporter and camerman. They asked His Eminence about his thoughts on Serbia, and he called its people "heroes" for overcoming the various types of oppression, foreign and domestic, over the last 500 years. "The Serbs are strong people," he said. "They can look to their past and know that they and their church are victorious." Sayidna also told them that the pilgrims were proud of their accomplishments in their national and spiritual renewal.
The parish priests then told Sayidna and the pilgrims that their new frescoes are the pride of the city and of its major donor, a mineral water bottling magnate who is buried on the grounds. Of course, the townspeople did the physical work and gave whatever resources they had. "The energy of the people in this area is obvious," Sayidna told the clergy. "Our delegation embraces you as brothers in Christ. Stay strong, and don't let anything break you down."