Rakovica Monastery is modest in construction and nature, just like the famed patriarch who chose to be buried here. Patriarch PAVLE (1914-2009) found solace in Rakovica and could make a quick retreat when he needed a break from his duties as patriarch. One of his predecessors, Patriarch DIMITRIJE (1846-1930) rests next to him. The monastery is not far from the patriarchal headquarters. Since it is located on a main road and not secluded, Rakovica suffered great damage during the NATO bombings of 1999.

The monastery dates to the 14th century and was built during the reign of Tsar Lazar. The church is dedicated to the Archangel Michael (built 16th-17th centuries) and gold leaf is used extensively on the frescoes. Pencil sketches on some of the walls mark the future homes of beautiful iconography. Atop the iconostasis sits a rare icon of Pentecost which also includes the Virgin Mary; usually, it just includes the Twelve Apostles receiving the Holy Spirit and tongues of fire. The Obrenovic Dynasty of the 19th deemed Rakovica to be a royal monastery, and it has enjoyed prominent roles of Serbian monastic life since then. It housed a school for monastics where they would learn future obediences, a seminary and an iconography school. Rakovica has undergone significant renovations during these times as well. It has housed nuns continually since 1958.

Abbess Evegnia welcomed Sayidna JOSEPH and the delegation, and then the conversation centered around the late Patriarch PAVLE. Sayidna said that he had only met this holy man and true shepherd once, but that the whole Orthodox world knew of his example of love. The Abbess is thankful that Patriarch PAVLE is buried here because the eleven nuns can always remember his examples and ask for his prayers and intercessions before God. She added that the late Patriarch loved Rakovica and served the Divine Liturgy here as often as he could. But most importantly, His Holiness was humble and modest: he ditched chauffeured cars for public transit; he sewed his own vestments; and made his own shoes.

Patriarch PAVLE spent the last two years of his life receiving treatment in a military hospital, and many of the staff had never even seen a clergyman. Abbess Evgenia says his presence changed the whole spirit of the hospital, and even the staunchest doctors and military personnel believed in Jesus Christ through him. They had even established a chapel in the hospital. After these stories, the delegation venerated the graves of the Patriarchs and left Rakovica, which by now had police waiting outside the gates. His Holiness, Patriarch KIRILL of Moscow was about to make his official visit.

The pilgrims next stopped at one of the most important sites in Belgrade. In 1592, Ottoman Turks cremated the relics of St. Sava, First Archbishop of Serbia on a hilltop for all of the Serbian people to see. It meant to demoralize the nation, but the action inspired the nation instead. Now, this hilltop boasts St. Sava Cathedral, a massive house of worship that is several decades in the making. It is modeled after Hagia Sophia Cathedral in Constantinople (Istanbul) and reflects the enduring spirit of the Serbian people. Construction began in 1936, but World War II, communist oppression and lack of funding have stopped it over the years. Now, without any more hinderances, the cathedral should be ready for consecration in 2020.

For now, twenty levels of scaffolding reach from floor to ceiling, rising with the marble pillars near the central dome that weighs 4000 tons. Crews lifted buckets of water and concrete with ropes. Four teams of artists are constantly at work for sculpting, flooring, mosaics and fresco iconography. Dry concrete, dirt and dust cover the floor for now, but when the cathedral is completed, it will stand 15,000 people and have three choir lofts for 900 singers.

The dean of the cathedral, Fr. Radivoy Panic, and the head iconographer, Mr. Jovan Antonaskovic, led Sayidna JOSEPH and the delegation on an extensive tour. Fr. Radivoy said that something holy has always rested on this site: from a small cross or chapel to a huge cathedral. Following a look at the main level, the pilgrims descended into the crypt where artisans busily worked. This will be another church where future patriarchs will be buried and where 9000 people can worship. The length of the crypt matches that of the Diocesan Cathedral of St. Nicholas in Los Angeles.

Two elevators will bring the faithful up and down St. Sava Cathedral, but for now, the delegation climbed stairs to the choir lofts. There it got an up-close look at the iconography that will adorn this holy house. Mr. Antonaskovic leads the iconographers, but the church is trusting them to work together and match each other's styles for complete visual harmony. Teams of experts review their work to this end. One icon that stood out included two angels lifting up the empty Cross of Christ which also had a wreath symbolizing victory, as well as the spear, sponge and four nails. Another was of the myrrh-bearing women which boasted such exquisite facial details.

Fr. Radivoy said that the cathedral has perfect acoustics for singing. Of course, Sayidna JOSEPH, his clergy and some of the men had to test them by chanting "To Thee, the Champion Leader." Fr. Radivoy was right: they were perfect because they had no echoes and each man could hear the other.

After the great tour of "big" St. Sava Cathedral, the pilgrims paid a quick visit to "little" St. Sava Church next door. Patriarch VARNAVA (BARNABAS, 1880-1937) rests here, as do important icons of the Virgin of Kazan and St. Sergius Radonezh. The latter's relics are kept here, and these were all gifts from the Church of Russia in 1999 as consolations following the NATO bombings.